This lovely spot is that of the old city of Lissos, in its lushly green valley setting. The beach is secluded, with sand, pebbles, rocks and deep waters; it is open to the strong south winds. Though undeveloped, all around it grow many trees that allow bathers to unwind in their shade.
The E4 Walking Trail passes through the ancient city, some hour’s walk from the beach.
Lissos was the only town in ancient Crete to issue its own gold coinage – the Lission, which portrayed the heads of the goddess Aphrodite and a dolphin. It acted as one of two harbour towns for the city-state of Elyros, further inland. You can visit the ruins: marvel at the mosaic pavement in the Asklepion, where came the sick from all over Crete to be cured. It was destroyed by an earthquake. Also visit the Roman cemetery and the remains of the theatre.
East of the beach, quite close by, is the picturesque chapel of Aghios Kyrikos: the saint’s day is the 15th July. If you are in the neighbourhood, a stop-off to join the festivities is worthwhile. Pilgrims come by boat or on foot – and a big feast follows the service!
Continuing east, the next stop is Sougia.
